Big is Beautiful for the Bottom Line


By George Anderson
Retailers have discovered bigger may be better, at least in terms of their customer’s physiques, when it comes to generating sales and profits for their business.
According to NPD Group, sales of plus-size clothing grew four percent last year to $17.4 billion.
NPD Group’s chief analyst, Marshall Cohen, told The Wall Street Journal that 40 percent of women wear at least some plus-size clothing. Plus-sizes represent 18 percent of the total apparel market.
Leading apparel retailers such as Nordstrom have seen the opportunity presented by plus-sizes and have developed plans to capture market share. For example, Nordstrom has added in-store events targeted to plus-size consumers that give shoppers the opportunity to speak directly with designers and buyers about what they’re looking for in clothing and fashion.
Moderator’s Comment: Do retailers need to advertise, merchandise, etc. differently for plus-size consumers than they would for those who do not wear
larger size clothing? What opportunities are there outside of clothing for retailers to target market to consumers who fall under the plus-size label? –
George Anderson – Moderator
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18 Comments on "Big is Beautiful for the Bottom Line"
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Re the following: Also, if you go into a Chico’s, the sizes are not small, medium and large or 8, 10, 12 14, 16 etc… They size items 1, 2 or 3. Even the largest plus size customer is only buying a size three. Very smart marketing and a big ego booster that gets people to spend more time in the store and spend more money.
Chico’s size 3 is comparable to a size 14-16, and for the life of me I can’t understand why they won’t extend their sizes farther. Think instead Coldwater Creek, which has almost every item lined up by size from 2 to 20 or even 22.
Another thing retailers need to realize is that at times of changing trends — as now, as pant legs get wider — why do the newest trends invariably not come in women’s sizes, even when the bulk of a retailer’s merchandise does? I’m thinking Lands’ End, L.L.Bean and Eddie Bauer here. Even Talbots does it.
Len, I will tell you that while many women find Chico’s sizing novel, they are annoyed by that most of Chico’s size 3’s don’t fit women over a size 12-14 (with the exception a few caftan-like tops and elasticized pant styles that allow for a “stretch”). I would put Chico’s in the “missing the opportunity” category for now (until they start making “4’s,” and “5’s” – ha!)
Don Delzell claims not to be a consumer marketer yet he, along with Karen Kingsley and Mike Tesler all hit the nail on the head in some form in the opinion of this old marketing warhorse. (Wait a minute, does turning 50 still make you “old” or is there another name for this demographic as well?)
The crux of marketing fashion is to convince the consumer that the item (clothes, jewelry, or designer cigarette) will enhance their appearance and therefore their image. Period. No one is different with regard to this need. The major mistake retailers have made in marketing large size clothing in the past is to let their societal bias that “overweight is unattractive” show through in their apologetic marketing and merchandising presentations. To be successful in marketing plus sizes, do exactly what is done with the other clothes — show ’em off!!!
Just to add one more little squidgeon to the women’s plus size discussion… not all plus size women are under 5’7″. Please please please add LONG to your vocabulary. Lands’ End — who makes talls up to 18 please note! Your 18-26 group could use some long lengths.
The average American woman wears a size 14. In most stores, plus sizes start at 16, which means that anyone in the country who is on the high side of the average is a “plus” shopper.
I believe the key is in treating her as if she were just a woman shopping for clothes. Don’t isolate her in a separate section of the store, offer fashionable styles, treat her as you would the size 6’s.
There’s huge opportunity for the retailer able to recognize that this woman is an average shopper in virtually every way and treat her as such.
Yes, the retailer needs to let the plus size woman know they have new styles and greater variety than ever before. My guess is that because plus-size woman are demanding more chic designs, they have not been catered to in this way in the past.
More pages have to be devoted to this, no-pun intended, fast-growing consumer segment. Catalogs from Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and the like need to devote pages to this segment.
In terms of merchandising, retailers will need to get real in terms of how they merchandise in store as well. Women, no matter what size they are, want to find styles that make them feel good about themselves, regardless of whether they are a size 2, 4, 8, or 14.
How many retailers realize
The expanding demand for plus-size?
Savvy merchants should enhance those
Now blanketed in oversized clothes.
Moral: Fashion is a thin-size gentility
that intimidates the oversized,
and is afraid of being overtaken.
Retailers are doing a better job acknowledging the plus-size market. But it’s still far from good. Even Target, noted for pretty strong fashion merchandising, needs to step up efforts in this lucrative area.
If you’re looking for a good model — no pun intended — retailers should take a look at Chico’s. Wall Street loves them. Mature women, who don’t look like stick figures, are a big part of their demographic. They have created fashionable clothing and accessories for a market that was once relegated to clothing that looked like maternity wear.
Also, if you go into a Chico’s, the sizes are not small, medium and large or 8, 10, 12 14, 16 etc… They size items 1, 2 or 3. Even the largest plus size customer is only buying a size three. Very smart marketing and a big ego booster that gets people to spend more time in the store and spend more money.
As a thin, old, balding, white male, I (except maybe for the thin) am a member of the group who for the most part has been making the marketing and merchandising decisions regarding Plus Size merchandise over the years. Everything about this feels wrong, even the title “Plus size,” I mean should size 1’s be “Minus size”? Clothes are clothes and people are people and the ones most likely to hold the keys to how to succeed in any particular portion of a business are those customers who are being targeted. I suspect most of the differences that retailers perceive are imaginary and I know many of them are offensive. The retailers who have been and will continue to win in this arena are the ones that communicate best with this target group and understand them the most (what else is new?).
While not a women’s retailer, I found it interesting that “Casual Male Big and Tall” just decided to change its name to “Casual Male XL” since evidently, guys aren’t crazy about carrying around bags that say “big and tall” when everyone thinks that translates to “fat.” In terms of apparel, I believe that the most important element for retailers is simply to get the word out that their sizes go higher so that larger consumers can get the go-ahead to buy instead of just browse. I also believe that the overweight tween/teen market still presents a tremendous opportunity and is grossly underserved. Ever try to buy an outfit for a less-than-trim teen at Abercrombie? Positively scary.
Sure, they should promote & merchandise differently, just like they would for any other distinct demographic. And I think retailers are doing a good job of it. It used to be that there were “fat people clothes” that were just odd in their design and color schemes. Actually, I wish now there were a bit more space set aside for size Medium. On the rare occasions I go clothes shopping, I wade through many, many L, XL and XXL before finding a few smaller sizes. We still exist out there. Somewhere.
Retailers need to be careful on this, lest they be “branded” as serving primarily the overweight crowd. Besides, with so many reports recently regarding the growing obesity trend in America, I would think that retailers are finding the so-called “plus” sizes very much in demand from the mainstream shopping public. If their supply does not meet the demand they have a problem. If their supply provides plenty of choices and options, those in search will come.
All customers need to know what a store sells and what it stands for. No need for value judgements or opinions. Quality, style and temptation are what counts. Then let the shoppers make their choice. There really isn’t any such thing as “these people” no matter how you define them.