Food Reality Shows Stimulate Culinary Aspirations

There is so much food and cooking now on television that retailers could be forgiven for wondering just what consumers want to buy and cook for themselves. Cooking for many is now about aspiration and building a career - living to eat rather than eating to live.

Craig LaBan, food critic for the Philadelphia Inquirer, believes the consequences of so much food television on "the food world as a whole ... have been nothing short of profound." He believes "a steady diet of food programming -- and in particular reality TV -- is as addictive as an on-demand dose of molten chocolate."

Agreeing, Tim Ryan, president of the Culinary Institute of America, says he believes the "culinary profession and food business" have been affected more than any other industry by reality television. He estimates "right now, there are about 60,000 students enrolled in culinary programs throughout the country. In 1972, there were 1,800."

Mr. LaBan attributes increased excitement partly to a change in format with "talking-head pros ... supplanted by pumped-up dramatics that blend The Real World and Survivor with pots and pans." While casually giving some credit to "the grassroots rise of the organic and slow-food movements," his piece focuses primarily on those who are described by last year's fourth place winner of Top Chef as "the new rock stars."

There are provisos raised, however, including "whether the food industry ultimately benefits in the long term or becomes a caricature of itself." Some newly hired to work in professional kitchens don't have sufficient understanding of the hard work and range of skills that are prerequisites for stardom.

What wasn't discussed, but is an issue familiar to British stores, is the inspiration provided by television food programs to people wanting to cook at home. No sooner do some celebrity chefs mention an ingredient than it becomes top of the shopping list for more customers than can obtain it. Advance warning of what will be seen on-screen has, on more than one occasion, changed what gets onto supermarket shelves. As well as what disappears from them most quickly.

Discussion Questions: What influence have the new food reality shows had on American consumers' palates and what they buy in restaurants and at home? What effect do you think food television shows are having in attracting young people to careers in the culinary arts?

• TV has whipped up a whole new world of food - Philadelphia Inquirer